Month: April 2014

Santiago de Chile, part 10: Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Santiago

At last. I finally made it. There is possibly nothing that I love more than a great big sculpture, particularly on a sunny weekday afternoon after a good lunch. Here’s a handy link to the museum.

That horse is about as solid and chunky as I was after all the red meat and beer.



Here’s what’s inside.

First up, a series of works by Patrick Steeger, entitled Uso Y Abuso.

This lovely piece is about the size of a pool table.



This is part of the same series. This is a very interesting concept. Those boxes you see on the floor there are full of wooden blocks of varying size, and the museum visitor is invited to make their own sculpture using the pieces.


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Guess who made this one.

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This thing is amazing. It is made of light wood and it is large enough for a person to step inside and walk from one end to the other, and that’s exactly what you are invited to do. When you get in, it wobbles and rolls around like a ship on the sea.



Also by Steeger: Fuera de Margen (Out of Range). Moulding, bricolage, 2011.



Next, an exhibition of mixed-media works by Francesca Leone. This is all recent stuff, 2013, and is being exhibited until 4th of May.






Housing In Amplitude, a project by Olaf Holzapfel & Sebastian Preece. The project concerns rustic housing in the Aysen region in the extreme south of Chile and is a form of archaeology, it’s about preserving the material culture of the area.

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With that, our walking tour of Santiago is complete. If you would like to follow this most excellent walking tour, all the instructions and a map are here, and let me say thanks very much to Kat Gilbert for designing and writing it. It really made my day and I found it not only interesting but clear and easy to follow, which is saying something, as I am not known for my sense of direction.

1 Art point.

Santiago de Chile, part 9: In which I finally get some lunch.

After thoroughly absorbing all the beautiful sights of the 1970s yarn shops I continued in a southerly direction, stopping as necessary to take photos of the delightful historic fountains and churches and so on.



Old men sit in the shade of the trees and play chess, and who can blame them. I wish I were there now. London is freezing cold and raining as usual.


The National Museum of Santiago.


Look at that church. I am no special friend of Jesus but you can’t argue with the architecture.


A clothes shop. I know. All clothes shops should look like this.


Just when you think it’s all about history, you rock up at Bellas Artes metro station and encounter these:


Look at those colours. The whole city is like this. The sunlight and the colours are something to behold.


The most excellent walking tour that I was following advised me that I could stop at this point if desired. However, the previous day I had tried and failed to find the museum of contemporary art, so I pressed on. When I eventually found it I had been walking around for about four hours, I was exhausted and ravenously hungry, so once I realised I was in the right general area, instead of charging directly into the museum which had become the final point of my personal quest, I headed for the nearest cafe and had a huge burger and more beer than was strictly necessary. That kind of behaviour is why I’m five pounds heavier than I used to be.



And with that, fed and rested, I ambled away, slightly drunkenly, in the direction of the museum of contemporary art, my personal holy grail.


More recovery

I am doing okay, if you were wondering. I am almost completely recovered physically. My arms are better. I still have residual swelling and bruising on my face more than two weeks later, but it is minor, it is not something that people in the street stop and stare at. Psychologically I am more fragile and experiencing post-traumatic nightmares, with the result that Nurse Moody has generously agreed to postpone some travel plans and stay here and care for me for a little bit longer. I am grateful. Being a victim and needing psychiatric nursing care is a very strange basis on which to establish a relationship and hardly what one is used to, but I am not complaining. He is looking after me and I am glad of him.

I did one swim (50 lengths) and another 10 mile walk, earning 2 Health points, which I am going to collect right now. I even got on the scales the other day and I’ve gained 5 pounds since departing for Chile, making me 138 pounds. This is not great but I am not going to panic about it as I have enough to worry about already. The part of my brain that deals with work is fully functional and it looks like we are on target for meeting the huge deadline, which is a small miracle.

And that’s all the non-travel-related news. Let me collect those couple of points right now and then I will show you some more pictures of Chile and attempt to bring that festival of loveliness up to date. There’s going to be more travel in the not too distant future and I can’t wait, I simply can’t wait. Watch this space for breaking news.

Shall we have a tune? It feels like it is about time.

Gregory Isaacs: Night Nurse (1982)

Santiago de Chile, part 8: The Market

Around the corner, I immediately found myself at the fruit market. Note that lady’s lovely crocheted gilet, I bet she made that herself.


After that, I went into this building, where there was plenty to see.


Baby knitwear. Too cute for words.




Are those llamas or alpacas?


Restaurant. I was very hungry at this point but I didn’t eat here because although it looks pretty it was actually quite noisy and smelled of fish. Not that that’s a bad thing. I’m just saying.


I left the building via the other exit at the back and that is where I discovered not one, not two, but three yarn shops right next door to each other. I will show you.

One. This is definitely not for tourists. This is where the Real Housewives of Santiago come shopping for all their yarn-related needs. Beautiful. It was like stepping back in time to the 1970s.


Two. Note the authentic Catholic nun doing some window-shopping. I wonder what she wanted to make.




You might be thinking that these stores look rather unprepossessing from the outside and that there was little reason for me to be standing there with my mouth open and my heart pounding, but that is because you don’t know yarn shopping like I do. Inside these three shops was an array of yarn that made London’s best department stores look pitiful. Take note, John Lewis. Take note, Liberty. You are not even trying.

I spent a really long time in these shops, taking photos, I was the only non-Chilean person in there and everybody else was acting like the amount of yarn on display was no big deal.






Hurr. Pimp my knitting.


£1.30 for 100g. You can’t argue with that, can you. I wanted to bring home the entire contents of all three shops but I would have had to charter my own plane.

I think that’s all for this morning, readers, as time is getting on. In upcoming episodes of TLYW Goes To Santiago we’ll see some more beautiful, historic buildings, some big, outdoor sculptures and the one thing I’d strenuously tried to get to the day before: the Museum of Contemporary Art.

Santiago de Chile, part 7: Wedding fashions.

As you can tell, we are now moving towards the part of Santiago where people do their shopping and I was rather intrigued by a probably quite mundane wedding dress shop because I wanted to look at the fashions and the prices, so here you are. If you are thinking of getting married in Santiago, here’s what you could wear, and where to get it.


Strappy and frilly. 180,000 Chilean pesos, equal to £192 British pounds, 233 Euros or $322 American dollars.


Sparkly. 240,000 Chilean pesos, equal to £256 British pounds, 311 Euros, or $430 American dollars.


Appliqué. 135,000 Chilean pesos, equal to £144 British pounds, 175 Euros, or $242 American dollars. I don’t know why I was so fascinated by these dresses, they struck me as different from European styles but it is hard to pinpoint exactly why without being rude. I actually think this one is rather outré. Probably looks nicer on.


Short. 125,000 Chilean pesos, equal to £133 British pounds, 162 Euros, or $224 American dollars.


If you are concerned that your wedding is going to be excessively discreet and boring, your guests could perhaps wear this. At 158,000 CLP, it costs more than some of the wedding dresses.


Or how about this orange number with matching turban. 120,000 CLP.


After you get married you’ll probably have a baby, and that’s why you’re going to need this.


Or this.


And probably all of these.


And now let’s tear ourselves away from the wedding shop and go the market.

Santiago de Chile, part 6: Stock Exchange to San Pablo

Having absorbed the impressive historical sight of La Moneda, it is then not far to the rather lovely Stock Exchange building which you see on the left there.


You probably need some coffee at this point to keep your strength up, so pick one up and stroll north in the direction of San Pablo street. There are a great many interesting and quirky things to see along the way.

A professional tarot card reader outside the Museo Chileno de Art PreColombino.



A slightly unprofessional-looking pharmacy. I am not sure how much I trust Dr Ahorro.


A leather clothing store where the mannequins have scary wolf heads.


A wonderful mural outside a cafe.